Monday, April 1, 2013

Easter in Paris, Part II

Today's post is the second, and final, installment of my two part series of photographs taken in Paris during the week leading up to Easter.  I hope you like it.


One of the places my seemingly never-ending search for champagne took me to was Le Vaudeville Brasserie, recommended by Nick Nicholson for its over-le-top Art Deco interiors.  We were not disappointed!  Not only did we find the sought-after flutes of champagne there, but we also found what we considered to be the best oysters we ate in Paris, and this marvelous, exuberant bouquet of cherry blossoms towering over the main dining room.


We admired the zen-like serenity of this chocolatier's window in the Carré Rive Gauche, nestled among the antiques shops the area is known for.  It's so French it's almost Japanese!


I stopped at this tiny flower shop on the Rue du Bac because I thought it was terribly clever to scatter the discarded petals of the roses for sale there onto the sidewalk instead of sweeping them up and away.  So pretty.


One was rather taken by this chocolate egg in the window of Les Marquis de Ladurée on the Place Vendôme featuring a cameo of Marianne of France.


More chocolate eggs seen in another chocolatier's window, this time wrapped with springlike green and chartreuse bows.


These pâte des fruits were the perfect ending to a lovely luncheon at le Grand Véfour, one of the oldest and most beautiful restaurants in Paris.


One does not see such flower stores here in New York outside of the city's (fast-dwindling) flower district.  In Paris they seem to be at every turn!


Looking up into the Dôme des Invalides takes one's breath away.


I'm convinced the French have cornered the world's market in the creation of pretty confections.


What Easter would be complete without bunnies cavorting about, as these ones are at Deyrolle?


Shelves and shelves of chocolate eggs, bunnies, chickens, and ducks wrapped with orange bows!


Speaking of eggs, while visiting the sublime Musée Nissim de Camondo, I finally learned how to use one of those French copper bowls made for whipping egg whites.  As can be seen in the photograph, the trick for stabilizing the round bottom of the bowl is to nestle it in a ring made of kitchen towel.  This was an "ah-ha!" moment for Reggie!


Paris is full of musical offerings during the Easter season.  We chanced upon an impromptu concert when visiting Eglise Saint-Sulpice early one evening.


I got yelled at by the security guard at the Hermès flagship store on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré for taking pictures, including this one of gorgeous flowers on display there.


One was able to console one's grief with cocktails and sandwiches later that evening at le Bar 228 at Hotel le Meurice.  I encourage you to read my FaceBook posting on that little episode, as I think you may find it amusing.


Just as on Madison Avenue here in New York, there is always a line to get into Ladurée's flagship store in Paris.  We were luckier at the Ladurée outpost in Saint-Germain.


Flowers and motorcycles are often seen together in Paris!


We thought this diamond and pearl tiara from the French crown jewels displayed at the Louvre was rather fetching.


But, to be honest, one preferred the more accessible rose-flavored cocktail in the bar at Hôtel le Bristol.  It was delicious, and a perfect "pick-me-up" during an afternoon of taking in the sights.


What trip to France would be complete without pausing to admire topiary-filled Versailles planters in the Jardin des Tuileries?


Or a visit to Cathédral Notre-Dame de Paris?  We were fortunate to find an evensong service in process there when we stopped in.  The singing was magical.  Of course one stood a respectful distance at the rear of the cathedral when taking this image.

And with that, Dear Reader, I conclude our whirlwind tour of Paris at Easter.  I hope you liked it.

All photographs by Reggie Darling

Friday, March 29, 2013

Easter In Paris, Part I

As readers of this blog and Reggie's friends on FaceBook will know, I have just returned from a delightful holiday in Paris.  While I was there I was enchanted by the decorations of the city's store windows, dressed in anticipation of Easter.  I took a number of photographs of my favorites while I was there, Dear Reader, along with snaps of other things that caught my fancy.  Today's post, the first in a two-part series, features a selection of those images.  I hope you like it.


I was rather taken by this charming display of chocolate eggs, bunnies, chicks, and bonbons in the window of a confiseur.  (Please note adorable, evil little child in green jacket . . .)


Paris is justifiably famous for its flower stores.  I was thrilled by these beautiful lavender roses.


As I was amused by this carton of white, milk, and dark chocolate eggs.  So clever!


The windows of Meert, in the Marais, featured a lovely selection of foil-covered chocolate eggs.  So pretty!


I loved this "mod" Easter display in one window.  The white metal stand is at least two feet tall!


What little girl wouldn't love a present of this pretty dress-up frock?


The windows of Les Marquise de Ladurée on the Place Vendôme featured enormous chocolate eggs, topped with chocolate ribbons.  The insides of each include a tower of macarons.  I was wild about them.


Of course seeing all those chocolate eggs made one long for the real thing, too.  Fortunately, one was able to do have them at breakfast at Les Ambassadeurs at the Hôtel de Crillon one morning.


Another window at Les Marquise de Ladurée.  I think the French really do the most marvelous store displays imaginable.


Although the weather was relatively balmy when we were in Paris, there were one or two evenings when any lady visiting the city would have appreciated slipping into this elegant cream mink coat that we saw in a window on the Rue de Faubourg Saint-Honoré.  Perfect for spring, non?


These topiary trees laden with oranges seen on the sidewalk one day made me long to have an orangery at Darlington House!


There were many temptations at La Grand Epicerie de Paris at le Bon Marché Rive Gauche, including this table of cellophane-wrapped chocolates.


This little lamb is actually a powder sugar-dusted cake.  What will they think of next?


Perhaps "they" will think of coating these chocolate eggs with butter cream candy decorations, as this chocolatier did?


Or why not blow out the yolks of real eggs and fill the shells with chocolate ganache?  I almost fainted when I saw these!


The Easter flower display in the lobby of the Hotel George V was suitably restrained.  So chic.


Can you believe the crazy whimsy of these stuffed bunnies and lamb at Deyrolle?  I loved them!


After all that visual excitement, I thought I might need a piece of this Tarte Cocktail to calm my nerves.


Better yet, I think I shall sit down in this elegant fauteuil, collect myself, and plot out where I shall go next.  Champagne is definitely in order . . .

Next: Easter in Paris, Part II

All photographs by Reggie Darling




Friday, March 22, 2013

Reggie in Paris and on Facebook

Dear Reader,
Reggie has been on holiday in Paris this week, and has been posting about it on his Facebook page.


If you haven't "friended" me on Facebook yet, I encourage you to do so, as I would enjoy sharing my exploits in the City of Light (among my other FB musings) with you.  You can find me on Facebook here.

Yours ever so,
Reggie

Photograph of Les Invalides at twilight by Reggie Darling

Thursday, March 14, 2013

An Afternoon at the Bartow-Pell Mansion

As should come as no surprise to his readers, Reggie rather enjoys visiting historic house museums.  He has happily done so his entire life, starting from when he was a boy growing up in Washington, D.C., a metropolis rich in historic house museums both within its boundaries and in the surrounding counties of Virginia and Maryland.

The front of the Bartow-Pell Mansion in Pelham Bay Park

Reggie visits historic houses because he appreciates the beauty of their architecture and contents, their historical significance, and the window they provide on how this country's elite lived in earlier times.  The decoration of such houses has, in some cases, informed Reggie's choices in furnishing his own residences.

The house has a large entrance hall with a
dramatic, sweeping staircase

This past weekend we found ourselves in Manhattan, again, instead of at our beloved Darlington House in the Hudson River Valley.  With a lazy two days ahead of us with no appointments or obligations we decided to visit a number of the city's historic house museums.

The hall was once heated by this
early nineteenth century iron stove

New York is blessed with (or burdened by, depending on who you are speaking with) a large collection of historic houses open to the public, many of which are located in its public parks.  Most are operated in tandem by the Historic House Trust of New York City and the City of New York Department of Parks & Recreation.

The north parlor of the house's grand double parlor

The Historic House Trust of New York City is a worthy, not-for-profit organization that provides essential support for houses of architectural and cultural significance that reside within the city's parks and that are open to the public.

The south parlor of the house's double parlor

The Trust has rescued many of the city's house museums from dereliction in recent years, a period in which the City's resources available for supporting such institutions has dwindled.  Reggie is most grateful that the Trust has stepped up to the plate to ensure the survival of these house museums.

Looking north through a doorway leading into
the south parlor and the north parlor beyond

Reggie encourages his readers to consider making a donation to the Historic House Trust of New York City (see link above), as it relies on support from the likes of Reggie and his fellow travelers.

An orangery designed by Delano & Aldrich and
added to the house by the International Garden Club
in the early twentieth century

Now, getting down to the inspiration for this posting.  The first house we visited during our city weekend was the Bartow-Pell Mansion Museum in Pelham Bay Park, in the Bronx.  It was an easy half hour's drive from the UES of Manhattan.

Mrs. Charles Frederick Hoffman, painted ca. 1930
(née Zelia Kumbhaar Preston)
Mrs. Hoffman was the founder and President of
the International Garden Club and
the Newport Garden Club, and
the rescuer of the Bartow-Pell Mansion

The Bartow-Pell Mansion sits on a handsome parcel of land facing east across Pelham Bay toward Long Island Sound.

A sitting room on the ground floor, opening off the main hall

The land on which the house stands was purchased by Thomas Pell in 1654 from the local Siwanoy Indians, and is at the core of what had once been the 10,000 acre Manor of Pelham.  

The house's dining room, with its table laid for dinner

Thomas Pell's nephew John Pell built a house near the site of the present mansion in 1671, in which four generations of Pells lived until the manor was divided shortly after the Revolutionary War.

Another view of the dining room.
What's for dinner?

In 1836, Pell family descendant Robert Bartow, a well-connected, wealthy publisher and printer from New York City, purchased part of the original manor and built a grand house in the then fashionable Greek Revival style.  The imposing gray stone house is composed of a three-storey main block flanked by two wings, and is what is today known as the Bartow-Pell Mansion.

Let's go upstairs and see what's up there!

When the house was built the surrounding area was bucolic and undeveloped save for a number of other large country estates belonging to the city's elite.  The house stood among pastureland, orchards, and lawns sloping down to Pelham Bay.

Contrary to what many people think, such
niches were not meant to allow for carrying coffins
downstairs, but rather to hold statues as shown here

The Bartows divided their time between their country house and a townhouse in Manhatttan, where they spent the cooler months of the year.  Mr Bartow and his wife, the former Maria Lorillard, had seven children.

An early nineteenth century Bartow family
needlework mourning picture

The house remained in the Bartow family for fifty years, by which time the area was no longer as desirable as it once had been for those seeking the serenity and quietude of country estate living.
  
A view into the upstairs family sitting room

In 1888 the Bartow's children sold the estate to the City of New York as part of the new Pelham Bay Park.  The house and its grounds entered into a period of neglect and decay.

The quality of the textiles, upholstery,
and carpets used throughout the house
is impressive

In 1914, the good ladies of the International Garden Club* adopted the mansion as their clubhouse, ensuring its survival at a time when neighboring estates were being demolished.
  
Another view of the upstairs sitting room
(Reggie admits he snuck across the barrier to take this photograph)

The Garden Club commissioned the architectural firm of Delano & Aldrich to modernize sections of the house and to restore its Greek Revival details.  

The supremely elegant master bedroom, with bedstead attributed
to Charles-Honoré Lannuier

In 1916 the Garden Club installed an elegant walled and terraced garden behind the house, leading out to lawns and fields sloping down to Pelham Bay.  

One of the house's secondary bedrooms

Further plans to establish an array of formal gardens were interrupted by the onset of World War I, and were never completed.  The Club hired landscape architect Ellen Biddle Shipman to redesign the gardens in 1927.

Another secondary bedroom, with freshly laid sea grass matting on the floor

In 1936, during one of the hottest summers on record, Mayor Fiorello H. La Guardia moved his staff north of the city to the house, and directed his affairs of the City from a telephone bank installed in the basement.

The rear facade of the house showing the handsome ironwork balcony
original to the house

Ten years later, in 1946, the International Garden Club opened the Bartow-Pell Mansion to the public as a house museum.

A late winter's view out over the terraced gardens in the rear of the house.
Pelham Bay (and the Pelham Bay Parkway) can be glimpsed in the distance

Today, the interiors have been thoughtfully and carefully restored to an approximation of their 19th century appearance.

Looking back towards the house from the terraced garden

A dramatic, free-standing spiral staircase rises from the house's entrance hall, connecting parlors and the dining room on the ground floor with the family and staff bedrooms above.  Mahogany doors open onto spacious double parlors on the ground floor with handsome carved marble fireplaces and tall windows that look out onto the elegant, terraced garden.  The house includes a large, Colonial Revival style orangery that was added by the Garden Club during the Delano & Aldrich renovation.

The front facade of the house showing its original
second storey iron balconies.  It is missing the shutters
that once hung on its windows.
(Reggie would prefer it if there wasn't so much asphalt
covering the ground in front of the house...)

The Bartow-Pell Mansion's interiors are beautifully furnished with period antique furniture made by New York City's most noteworthy cabinetmakers of the early nineteenth century, including examples from the workshops of Duncan Phyfe, Charles-Honoré Lannuier, and Michael Allison, among others.

A view of the front of the Bartow-Pell Mansion, ca. 1870
Image courtesy of the City of N.Y. Department of Parks & Recreation

Furniture, decorations, and art have been donated to the house museum and also loaned to it by the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Museum of the City of New York.

The empty decorative niche in the facade
of the front of the house

The Bartow-Pell Mansion is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, and is both a National Landmark and a New York City Landmark.

The estate's coach house, built in 1842, was not open
the day Reggie visited the Bartow-Pell Mansion

The house and gardens are still operated by the International Garden Club.

The sign at the entrance gates to the
Bartow-Pell estate

Reggie enjoyed visiting the Bartow-Pell Mansion and its gardens, and he encourages his readers to visit the estate as well.  Doing so provides a unique opportunity to take in a rare survivor of refined and elegant country house living by members of the city's highest elite during the middle decades of the nineteenth century.

* Reggie has not been able to find any information about the International Garden Club, beyond what is contained on the Bartow-Pell Mansion's website.  He would be most grateful to any of his readers who know more about the Club if they would share it with him and his readers.

A special thanks to the Bartow-Pell Mansion Museum & Gardens and the Historic House Trust of New York City.  Reggie has consulted and relied on resources published by both entities in this posting.

Except where noted, all photographs by Reggie Darling and Boy Fenwick.

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